As a Change Management Consultant in the Netherlands, Hans took his own advice and, well, changed! He and his wife moved to South Africa, on what seems like little more than a whim, in search of a great climate, good people and a different culture. He got everything he bargained for, and a few things he didn’t.
He didn’t know that his wife would start rescuing neglected horses and acquire fifteen of them. Nor did he know that even after cutting and poisoning the alien vegetation on his coastal nature reserve, it would simply grow back. He didn’t realise that when the Kouga Municipality said they were going to tar the road between Oyster Bay and Humansdorp, they didn’t actually mean it would happen anytime soon.
But the setbacks are small and insignificant compared to the pleasure of living on this beautiful stretch of Eastern Cape coastline beside the tiny village of Oyster Bay. And he doesn’t keep this all to himself. Oyster Bay Lodge consists of a line of ten chalets and guest suites positioned along a high ridge, with views over the 235 hectare nature reserve and the Indian Ocean. With its own 3.5km pristine beach, this could be considered the perfect piece of land.
The horses, now fatter and healthy, roam free in the reserve and wander where they please, until it’s time for a beach ride. There’s pretty much a horse for every size and competency. So, whether it’s a stroll or a gallop, you can live that dream of riding through the wavebreak on a deserted beach, meeting only the occasional fisherman, and seeing the rare black oystercatchers that successfully breed here, and even dolphins in the surf.
But where are the oysters? Lodge Manager, Michael Cowie, says there are very few here, although some young luscious ones are still to be found on the rocks. “Eat them as soon as you find them,” he suggests, “with the taste of sea water still in them.” If you go on a nature walk with Michael, he’s more likely to steer you in the direction of the woods than the beach, as he has a passion for birds. There are about 150 bird species in the reserve, including the Kynsna Turaco (Lourie), who comes crashing through the branches dressed like it is going through a colourful punk phase.
With five different bomas in this wonderfully wild and unpredictable reserve, you can choose your favourite spot to stop and take it all in. Picnic benches are placed at opportune places on walking paths, and if you are lucky, some bushbuck, duiker or grysbok will creep quietly from the undergrowth and graze in full view. There are giant, curvaceous sand dunes, their surfaces pockmarked only by horses’ hooves and the feet of wandering guests. Then there’s a wobbly suspension bridge over the wetland leading to a sundowner boma; the ideal location to witness daylight turning into a purple sunset.
Life at Oyster Bay Lodge doesn’t end at dusk; this is when the fine dining restaurant comes into its own. ‘Seagrass’ is open to the public, with food presented like artworks of intense flavours. Local ladies have had expert training, and the waitresses are the chefs are the hostesses, and seem to be everything to everyone.
If Hans Verstrate comes to your table to ask how you are doing, don’t look too deeply into his eyes or reveal too much about yourself.
He has an uncanny knack of being able to sum you up very quickly and ask probing questions that could induce you to change your life. The next thing you know, you’ll be wondering to yourself, “If he found the pearl in his oyster, why can’t I?”
Getting There
Oyster Bay Lodge is between Knysna and Port Elizabeth. It’s 1½ hour’s drive from Port Elizabeth airport, 20-minutes from St Francis Bay and 25-minutes from Humansdorp, and boasts a 4-star grading from the Tourism Grading Council. More details are available at www.oysterbaylodge.com.
7 Wonders of the Eastern Cape
The Eastern Cape is part of the Cacadu District, whose ‘7 Wonders’ campaign aims to expose the area’s beauty to more visitors. There are all sorts of special offers available in their seven chosen districts: Addo, Grahamstown, Baviaans, Jeffrey’s Bay, Karoo, Sunshine Coast, and Tsitsikamma. There are activities too, like learning to surf in Jeffrey’s Bay at Wavecrest Surf School (073 509 0400). Take a leisurely boat trip on the St Francis canals and up the Kromme River with River Break (042 2980054), or a guided trip into Baviaanskloof with Deon van der Merwe (082 414 8483).